Into the Heart of Sikkim : Goechala Chronicles
As I sit down to write this, it’s been a little over a month since we embarked on a journey that left a permanent mark—not just on our ankle & knees, but on our souls. The Goechala trek was almost everything we hoped for and everything we weren’t quite prepared for. It was beautiful and brutal in equal measure, a test of endurance, spirit, and ankle strength (more on that later).
This wasn’t just a trek. It was a full-blown reset button for the mind. Somewhere between the misty forests, the bone-chilling winds, and the surreal views of Kanchenjunga, something shifted. The brain, usually a noisy place full of to-do lists and what-ifs, quieted down. It started focusing on the little blessings—hot tea, simple wholesome meals, little bursts of sunshine on otherwise cloudy days, shared laughs —and filtered out the mental chatter about everything else.
I often wish someone would invent a way to bottle up these experiences. Not just the photos, but the feelings. The awe, the stillness, the grit. Something we could sip on during the chaos of “normal life” to remind ourselves of what truly matters.
For the three of us, booking the Goechala trek was one of those “just do it” moments. No overthinking, no endless planning—just a leap of faith. Because let’s be honest, if we’d done it the other way around, it might never have happened. 😊
We knew we were signing up for a tough trek. So we trained, we prepared, and we hoped it would be enough. And in many ways, it was.
But it wasn’t until the final day—back at base, safe and whole—that we truly understood: fitness was essential, yes. But it was divine grace that carried us through. The weather, the terrain, the sheer unpredictability of the trail… there were moments that no amount of training could prepare us for.
We were lucky. We were blessed. And we were changed.
Day 0 : From Delhi Dreams to Siliguri Snooze
The flight was booked after meticulous calculation of leaves, day offs, departure – arrival – pick up timings. But naturally, The Universe laughed, (it was just the prelude to how things were going to be), the flight timing was rescheduled, forcing us to reschedule and reach a day earlier. We landed in Bagdogra on 3rd April, and made our way to hotel in Siliguri, choosing to stay near our next day’s pick-up point. Any half-baked plans to explore the city in the evening were quietly dropped as our cab navigated the congested, dusty & under-construction route to the hotel; not to mention, the weather was hardly pleasant. So we rested. We hydrated. We stared blankly at the ceiling and mentally prepared for the adventure ahead.
Day 1: Siliguri to Yuksom : (150km/ 6-7 hrs)
The Long Road to Yuksom – A Masterclass in Patience
We began with optimism. We ended with sore backs and a newfound respect for the cab drivers shunting from Siliguri and back.
The day was even more uneventful than the previous one. What was supposed to be a comfortable 6-7 hr ride, took the whole day due to road blocks. Never-ending constructions / landslides / vehicle breakdowns leading to congestion resulted in most of us reaching Yuksom around 7:30 PM , well past the sunset. Skipping the usual introductions, there was quick health check & briefing followed by dinner after which everyone retired to their respective rooms to pack and get ready for the next day.
Day 2 : Yuksom to Sachen ( 5840 ft to 7400ft / 7.5 Km)
Into the Woods – From Storybook Village to Tent Life
Mood for the Day:
🌞 Fresh, curious, and mildly overwhelmed by the number of birds and the size of the dining tent.
Waking up in Yuksom felt like someone had photoshopped reality. The skies were a perfect blue, the village was squeaky clean, and Buddhist prayer flags fluttered like nature’s own Instagram filter. If someone had offered me a cottage and a lifetime supply of momos, I might’ve stayed back forever.
The day followed the classic 7-8-9 rhythm: wake-up tea at 7, breakfast at 8, and start trekking by 9. We began with a short visit to the Kanchenjunga National Park check post—a charming little museum showcasing the region’s rich biodiversity and culture. It was beautiful, yes, but also a gentle slap of realization: we know so little about our own country. Goechala is a popular trail, and we were just beginning to understand why.
As we left the village and entered the forest the energy within our group of 24 was that of cautious excitement. We were told to be prepared for a moderate – steep ascend and gorgeous trail into the Kanchenjunga national park. As we crossed the bridge and entered the national park, it became clear why the trail is known to be a birder’s paradise. Over the next 7 days, we saw many, many beautiful birds, so gorgeous & vibrant, and heard the melodious calls of many more !
We reached Sachen around noon—a tiny forest clearing with a log hut and just enough space to make you question your personal bubble. The mules arrived fashionably late, as did our luggage. Spirits were high, the weather was kind, and we were introduced to our new daily ritual: pitching and un-pitching tents.
Snacks and dinner followed, but the dining tent was... let’s say “intimate.” With 24 of us trying to squeeze in, it felt like a game of human Tetris. Still, we made the most of the outdoors, shared stories, and soaked in the forest vibes.
Day 3 : Sachen to Tshoka (7400 ft to 9790 ft / 6.5Km)
Rhododendrons, Reunion & a Rogue Ankle
Mood for the Day:
🌸 Awe-struck, ankle-struck, and slightly windblown.
Woke up much before the alarm went off. For one, it was bright inside the tent, at 5 AM. Also, quite a few people were up and getting freshened up . Since the tents were pitched close, it was hard to ignore the movements. Over breakfast, we found that our TL was missing. Plot twist: he’d gone to assist with an emergency descent for a trekker from the batch ahead. A sobering reminder that this trail isn’t just pretty rhododendrons and Instagrammable views—it’s also tough. The trail today was a rollercoaster—steep ascents, steep descents, and then more ascents. It took us through log trails surrounded by rhododendron trees all around. The blossoms were there, lots of reds, a few pink, but not as dense and abundant as we had been expecting, considering this was the peak flowering season.
And then—plot twist #2—Indrajit! My trek lead from Kedarkantha, a whole decade ago, now leading his own group, along with his wife. What are the odds? Small world, smaller trails.
Unfortunately, the day also brought the trek’s first casualty – my ankle. While descending, one steep step, one misstep, I lost my footing in a slo-mo nondramatic manner ending up with a sprained ankle and a slightly bruised dignity. Trudged on, putting my trust in the high ankle shoes and hoping the damage was more emotional than physical.
Tshoka, was smaller than a little village. A few houses ,which also doubled as lodges for trekkers, a monastery, a tiny pond and a 360° view of mountain slopes dotted with rhododendrons and white magnolias. As we pitched the tents, what should’ve been a two-person job turned into a group wrestling match with flying tent flaps, thanks to the strong winds. By the time we were done, it was calm again. After enjoying a well deserved hot cuppa tea and snacks, rest of the evening was spent perched on a hilltop, contemplating life choices and watching magpies hop across snowy slopes. If this trek had a theme, it would be just that—“Contemplating Life Choices.” Every day, someone muttered it. Every day, it felt true. Why do we sign up for this kind of discomfort? Maybe because somewhere between the blisters and the breathtaking views, we find something real.
Moved back to our tents as it got dark, prepared to wind up, looking forward to another day of beautiful walk and any challenge that would be tossed our way.
Day 4 : Tshoka to Dzongri ( 9790 ft to 13190 ft / 8.4 Km)
High Hopes & Thin Air – March to Dzongri
Mood for the Day:
☀️ Energized, altitude-dazed, and momo-motivated.
By now, our group had settled into a rhythm. Most of us were up by 5:00–5:30 AM, not because we had to, but because the mountains don’t believe in blackout curtains. The morning was glorious—crisp, chilly, and sunlit. Those with a few spare minutes soaked in the peaceful vibes of Tshoka. The day’s trail was steep, winding through the forests. Everyone walked at their own pace, occasionally pausing to admire the views—or to catch their breath and pretend they were admiring the views. Snack exchanges and casual banter were reserved for the rare flat sections, which felt like nature’s version of a coffee break.
We reached Dzongri around 3 PM. By this time, some of the team members started showing signs of altitude sickness. Headaches, vomiting, stomach upset – all these are to be expected if the body doesn’t acclimatize well to the altitude; It was a reminder that no matter how fit or experienced you are, the mountains always have the final say.
Most campsites on the trail were congested, not just for the 24 of us, but also because of the many batches running simultaneously. We had atleast 2 other groups moving along with us, with similar itinerary , sharing the campsites. Because of the terrain, available water source etc, Tents were pitched elbow-to-elbow, and trip to the toilet tent felt like a bonus cardio session. Little blessings in life, there was tiny tea shop right next to the campsite, with sufficient benches for us to spend leisurely hours sipping hot tea, with best tasting momos & samosas , watching the cloud play.
Day 5 : The Great (Cloudy) Sunrise Chase
Acclimatization Day -Dzongri to Dzongri top ( 13190ft to 13610 ft / 2 Km)
Wake-up call: 3:00 AM.
Mood: Somewhere between “This better be worth it” and “Why do I do this to myself?”
Only the brave (and the slightly sleep-deprived) answered the call to hike up to Dzongri Top in the freezing dark. The goal? Witness the legendary sunrise over Kanchenjunga—a celestial spectacle that only blessed ones get to witness.
So off we went, headlamps bobbing, noses freezing, and cameras tucked deep inside jackets because frostbite is not a vibe. The trail was short but cold & windchill was real.
By 4:30 AM, we reached the top and found strategic boulders to hide behind. We waited, shivering, for the grand reveal of the Sun God lighting up the mighty peaks.
And then… clouds.
Thick, moody, unapologetic clouds. The kind that show up uninvited and refuse to leave.
They teased us with fleeting glimpses of golden light, like a celestial game of peekaboo. Just when we thought the show was about to start—curtain closed. Again.
With nothing else planned for the day, we did what any group of altitude-acclimating adventurers would do—claimed a bench outside the tea shop like it was prime real estate and settled in for some good old-fashioned people-watching and story-swapping.
The weather, however, had commitment issues. One minute it was cloudy, the next it was drizzling, then misty, and suddenly—bam!—beautiful bright sun..for whole 2 minutes..
Inner Monologue, 11:00 AM:
“Ah, it’s cloudy. No need for sunscreen.”
Inner Monologue, 2:00 PM:
“Why does my face feel like it’s been slow-roasted?”
Turns out, UV rays at 13,000+ feet don’t care about your cloud cover. I ended up with a sunburn so intense, I looked like I’d just returned from a beach vacation in the Sahara. For days after I got back, people kept asking, “Where did you go?
By evening the cramped camp site became a tiny village of tents (picture Everest base camp) as two more trek groups rolled in and pitched tents at the same site. Navigating back to our own tents felt like a level in a maze game.
For healthy dose of fun, our TL demonstrated using makeshift stretcher for evacuation at high altitude ; we practiced figure-of-8 knot. Ended the day feeling slightly more prepared for emergencies—and significantly more aware of how uncoordinated we are under pressure.
Day 6: Dzongri to Thansing (13190 ft to 12910 ft / 6.5 Km)
The Great Altitude Illusion – Down, Up, and Everything In Between
Mood for the Day:
🎢 Mildly betrayed by topography, emotionally moved by human grit, and spiritually revived by the riverside.
We thought we were cruising at the same altitude. The Himalayas said, “You think ?!”
Woke up , eager to push off to get away from the crowded site. It was little consolation that Dzongri and Thansing are practically at the same altitude, right?.
Wrong !
Turns out, “same altitude” in mountain-speak means: “Let’s descend into a valley so deep your knees will file a complaint, and then climb back up just to keep things spicy.”
As we went about the morning routine of getting ready, breakfast, packing lunch, unpitching, got to know of more team mates having health issues. More people had trouble sleeping at night due to headache and nausea. Altitude was doing its thing.
Ajit and Ashwin were visibly struggling, and just 30 minutes into the trail, it became clear this wasn’t going to be a regular hike. Ajit’s vision was blurry, Ashwin was moving like he was in a slow-motion documentary. Progress on the day’s trail was slow as we were having long haults for them to catch-up and watching the struggle to do so.
Beauty of today’s trail was very different from the previous days. For most part were walking along open slopes painted in shades of dark green, earthy brown and maroon, all the while clouds floating in, and clearing up ..all in matter of minutes. The final descent of the day was an extremely steep segment, with a side of bird watching. We were told that we might spot Blood Pheasant, the state bird. Between watching out for the bird, and trying not to trip over the tree roots, we spotted a few birds, none of which was the elusive one.
Then came Kokchurang. A riverside paradise straight out of a travel brochure. Smooth boulders covered in pink lichen, and the gentle murmur of the Prekchu river. We flopped down, unwrapped our packed lunches like they were gourmet meals, and soaked in the serenity. It was the kind of place that makes you forget your legs are noodles, makes all the effort worthwhile.
Ajit, unfortunately, had to descend from Kokchurang—his condition hadn’t improved. Watching Ashwin arrive later, visibly shaken but still standing, was both scary and inspiring. With SpO2 below 50%, vision issues, and barely any strength, he still chose to push forward. If that’s not grit, I don’t know what is. As night fell, we all tucked in early—tired, anxious, and quietly bracing for summit day. But for now, we had warm food, a beautiful view, and the knowledge that we’d made it through another wild, wonderful, and slightly ridiculous day in the mountains.
Day 7 : Thansing to View Pt 1 & back (12910 ft - 15100 ft – 12910 ft / 16 km)
Midnight Madness, Mountain Magic & Miracles
Mood for the Day:
🌌 Sleep-deprived, summit-stunned, and snow-struck.
We left camp in the dead of night, climbed into the clouds, and came back down with full hearts.
Crazy Day !!
Woke up groggily at 11:30 PM. . Somewhere far away, in another corner of the country, my family was probably still sprawled in front of the idiot-box, halfway through dinner, the familiar hum of home life continuing without me. But here, in this remote mountain outpost, the night had a different rhythm. We were fueling up with warm poha and ragi malt to prepare us for the five-hour hike ahead. At 12:30 AM, twenty-one of us set off, headlamps flickering to life like fireflies in the dark. Our goal: to reach the summit in time to witness the first rays of sunlight kiss the majestic peaks that now felt so much closer, so much more real. Slow and steady we moved in single file in the pitch darkness, only headlights marking our presence. The only sounds were the crunch of boots on frost covered grass and gravel and the occasional murmur of encouragement. The trail was challenging—mostly a gradual ascent, with a couple of steep sections and a final scramble over boulders that tested both our legs and our will. Reached the summit just as twilight began to drape the landscape.
Standing there, a mere speck amidst the jagged, unwelcoming terrain, I felt the full weight of my tiny existence. Towering peaks loomed around—as old as the planet itself. Their sheer presence was both humbling and overwhelming.
Making the most of the little time spent there, we headed down, back to our camp. And just like that, the day got better.
IT STARTED TO SNOW !
For some of us, it was the magic of first snowfall. Words fail to describe the sheer beauty and happiness of the next 4 hours we spent walking back, through the snow, loving every bit the scenic views . The stillness of Samiti lake which mirrored the surrounding mountains & the prancing pair of mustard yellow ducks like it was a show put together for our benefit. The snowfall picked up intensity as we neared campsite. We were glad that by the time the snow covered the trails, we could see our campsite on the horizon. Some of us had the scary experience of feeling lost as people tend to scatter and move at leisurely pace after the summit push and inadvertently drift away from the guides.
Watching the campsite turn white was surreal. Watching it turn into a muddy mess shortly after? Less so. After lunch and a debriefing where everyone shared their experiences, it became evident that everyone was taking back with them the essence of goechala in in their own way.
The Great Descent – Moss, Mud & Everything Wet
Mood for the Day:
🥴 Mentally philosophical, physically soggy
The mountains gave us beauty, then flipped the perspective.
All that followed after this point was a test of mindset. The physical challenges gave way to a mental ones. The weather shifted, the terrain changed, and each new twist, was reminder that nothing stays still in the mountains—or in life. It became a quiet study in perspective: how long can the glass stay half full?
It rained through the evening and night. Translated : messy campsite, wet tents & sleeping bags, treacherous trails. We woke up to beautiful clear morning, and for the first and last time had the clearest view of Thansing. We began our descent with a silent goodbye to the mountains—and a surprise cameo by the elusive Blood Pheasant, who casually strutted into the trees like a celebrity avoiding paparazzi. It was like an omen. Box: ticked.
Tracing back the trail to Kokchurang, through the mystical forest we reached the clearing by the river, to be welcomed by clear blue skies and view of snow covered peaks. After spending quiet 5 mins of reflecting on the last few days & writing notes on the postcards distributed , we made our way out back into the forest. The flora was very different this time. All trees were covered with thick moss, the shrubs, ferns and everything felt very different, similar to Edward’s forest in Twilight !
Just as we were gushing about how beautiful the trail was, Universe decided to up the ante. Out of nowhere, it started to pour, and if that was not enough, hail . The trail turned into mudslide obstacle course , and it indeed felt like we were going in loop through the forest. Once again, cold, wet , dirty and hangry, our limits tested, we reached our designated lunch point, Phedang, by 3:00PM. It had stopped raining for a bit. Struggle was written on every face. Ascents test your lungs. Descents test your knees. Add rain, and it’s a full-body betrayal.
The rest of the trail till Dzongri was mostly steep, and progress was slow. If only it was not so wet and slippery, I would have been able to enjoy the beauty of it. On the few occasions when I tried to look anywhere other than where to land the next step, I nearly slipped. Lesson of the day: beauty is great, but staying upright is better.
Reached Dzongri later than expected, thankfully, we dint have to pitch tent today. Downside of all the rain, the tents we wet and damp. Cleaning up and changing out of the muddy clothes was a task best left undescribed.
Hot tea felt divine. It was a long day, and I just wanted it to end, to get back into the cozy sleeping bag and sleep. Not surprising, everyone slept so much better . Whether it was the lower altitude, lesser cold, fatigue and sleep deprivation over the last few days, we all woke up well rested.
Day 9 : Tshoka to Yuksom ( 9790 ft to 5840 ft / 13km)
The Final Descent – Mud, Memories & Bondas
Mood for the Day:
💪 Sore but soaring
It was one of those days where the whole group had that “Bring it on” energy. Spring in the gait, raincoats at the ready, and a collective sense of let’s do this. We were sore, and slightly sleep-deprived—but mentally? Unshakable.
Nature could throw rain, wind, mudslides, or surprise leeches at us—we were ready. Heck ! Some of us even had raincoats on , while there was no trace of clouds in the sky !
Walked through the forests, past tiny settlements, across the hanging bridges reflecting over the adventure, each at their own pace, in their own physical and mental space. The final pause on the bridge just along the entrance of Kanchenjunga National Park. Across from us, a waterfall cascaded down the face of a giant boulder, roaring and graceful all at once. That was the picture I wanted to carry back with me. Not just the image, but the feeling: the stillness, the awe, the quiet triumph of having made it this far. No camera could do it justice. It was a memory meant for the heart.
As we entered the village of Yuksom, it felt like the perfect closure to a beautiful journey. We were back where it all began—but we were not the same people who had left nine days ago. The group was fun, gelled beautifully and the camaraderie kept everyone going through the challenges. Once bathed and cleaned up, we barely recognized ourselves—less like mountain hobbits, more like semi-civilized adventurers. We gorged on hot tea and crispy bondas, swapping stories like old friends around a fire.
The evening melted into a feast of local delicacies, laughter echoing through the night. We talked until our eyes shut on their own, full of food, joy, and the quiet pride of having done something truly special.
Emotional goodbyes followed the next morning as everyone dispersed with promises to stay in touch and the classic “See you in the mountains again someday.” And maybe, just maybe, we will.
Photo credits : Siddharth ( One who clearly missed their calling as an ace photographer )
Shoutout to Neelu ,my designated trek buddy, tent mate and the brave soul who washed tiffins in water cold enough to freeze time itself. From setting up sleeping bags to greeting me with a warm hug as a scramble up reaching the summit, it would not have been fun without you. Thanks for not judging my 3 layers of socks :)
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