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Kedarkantha Memoires - 1st – 6th April 2017



Exhilarating! Breathtaking ! Absolutely Fantastic!
Words fall short to describe the 4 days of trek to Kedarkantha summit , a journey, that was like a breath of fresh air, breaking the monotony of our mundane lives, giving us the instant boost and a treasure trove of memories!
Want to pen down the experience, before it starts to fade gradually, till only the faint highlights remain, of what was one of the best experiences of my life.

Day 0:
We prepared to leave for Dehradun by train from New Delhi.  Sleepy, since the train scheduled to depart at 11:50 PM, is usually late by 15-20 mins.

Day 1:
Reached Dehradun. Pickup organized by Indiahkes team. Dehradun station is the pickup point for several treks – Nag Tibba, Har Ki Dun & Kedarkantha. Seeing fellow trekkers, with the standard decathlon gear gives rise to a feeling of camaraderie.
Couple of enquiries later, 3 of us are in a bolero, accompanied by 2 guys from Indore, on our way to a quaint village by the name of Sankri, which is the base camp for our Kedarkantha (KK) trek & their Har ki Dun (HKD) trek.
Pleasant journey, as we drove along the meandering road, with rivier Supin flowing by our side. Road gets narrow & bumpy as we inch closer. Despite the bumpy ride, none of us manage to keep our eyes open for long, drifting in and out of journey induced slumber. First ones to arrive, we reached our destination, Hotel Swargarohoni, by 5:30 pm, to be greeted by our trek leader, Indrajeet Hazra. Unpretentious, approachable and friendly, Jeet, and his people management skill is what got the bunch of 20 us bonding over the next 5 days.
After a quick medical checkup, which was followed by a round of introductions & a briefing on what is to be expected over the course of next few days, the perfect end to day 1 was the star gazing session, led by Jude, who was managing the slope. Lucky us, to get the opportunity to see craters on moon up close, and also Jupiter & 4 of its moons. Apart from Jude pointing out the constellations, which we forgot, pretty much as soon as we heard the names, we were also fed with some very interesting trivia & quotes. Jude’s passion cum hobby was truly inspiring. The clear sky, which we never get to see from city, also blessed us with beautiful vision of a shooting star.

Day 2:
Despite my promise to self about returning to the slope with better fitness, I was disappointed with myself.
20 mins into the climb, I was trailing. From 6500 ft to 9000 ft, the 4 km ascend was not supposed to be a tough climb. Jeet had mentioned that we’d be able to reach our 1st campsite – Juda Ka Talaab, in about 4 hours.

Huffing & puffing, with occasional backward glance to appreciate the beauty of the trail and the enjoy the clear view of snow covered peaks which was getting clearer as we gained altitude, we reached the campsite by 12:00. A beautiful clearing, with the lake being the  central attraction.  30 mins to settle down in our respective tents, freshen up (wet toilets!! Yay!!), we were soon having our lunch.
Of all the things Indiahikes does well, meals is something which exceeds expectations.
Healthy, wholesome with a touch of local taste. Always followed by dessert !
After lunch , followed by short rest, all of us took off for an acclimatization walk. Treated to the lovely sights while walking through the pine forest, into another clearing, where sheep were grazing. The 2 mountain dogs (Sheru #1 & Sheru #2) has a field time chasing and scattering the sheep. Spent some 15-20 mins relaxing, after which we leisurely walked back to the camp site.
Had a fun round of introductions and games, followed by the routine of tea, snacks, soup & dinner.
With the sun down, and chill catching up, the last few of us reluctantly climbed into our tents, into the comforting warmth of sleeping bags, calling it a hard close at 9:00 PM.

Day 3:
Today was to be an easier day, 2 Km ascend, climbing from 9000 ft to 10000ft.
Kicked off the climb by 9. Though it was a shorter trek, there were tricky patches due to the melting snow. We had some truly lovely people with us, who stayed back and helped everyone cross the slippery bits, lending a helping hand.
As we approached the kedarkantha base camp, which is also called Talkhetra, we were in for a shock. Dismayed at the sight of trash , strewn across the entire camp site, we were aghast at the stupidity & insensitivity of people who were responsible for the same.
Spent the first 30 mins at the site picking up rubbish which ranged from sanitary waste to liquor bottles and everything in between. Jeet had managed to turn  the clean-up activity into a team challenge , and all of us we only too happy to support the Indiahikes team with the greentrails initiative.
Lazed around basking in the sun till we heard the familiar call out " Come-on Guys !!" ... Jeet collecting people for the acclimatization walk.
Once back, had a briefing on how to use micro-spikes & gaiters, in preparation for the next day's summit climb.

Day 4 :
Today, we were supposed to wind up early. Had to wake up at 2 am  !!
The experience of getting out of cozy sleeping bags at 2in the morning, to freshen up ( dry toilets , head lamp, freezing cold) , have breakfast at 3am ( yes it is as weird as it sounds), pack up , line up and head out in the dark...!! NOTHING BEATS IT !!
With microspikes providing strong grip on the hard snow..we head out in a single file, the beam of our headlamps lighting up the way....
Super exciting, super cold, treading along the occasional narrow ledge is super scary too...



Jeet keeps motivating everyone...." Trust the microspikes.....you won't slip ! "
Somewhere along the way, we are treated with magnificent sunrise..!! I feel extremely lucky to have been able to experience all of this.
Thank God for little blessings....half way up, there is a chai point !!   :)
The KK summit, is a deceptive one...it looks close, easily approachable. The more we walked, the further it looked.
The last bit of summit climb is extremely steep. Had it been any more steeper, it would have qualified for technical climb !! Challenging and scary are the 2 work that would sum it up. The thought of missing a foot hold was something i was battling constantly !
Yay !!! Finally !!At the summit !!!


The Euphoria & Sense of Achievement... cannot be described  in words!!
On the other hand, being conscious of our relatively microscopic presence, surrounded by towering peaks, battling the sub-zero temperature & the chilly wind,  felt humbled in presence of nature's might & beauty...
After a round of chikkis, biscuits, energy bars and the always handy dry fruits, everyone scrambled to click pictures. It is not everyday that one gets the opportunity to pose for breathtaking DPs.
Amidst the excitement, Jeet pointed out the names of the mountain ranges & peaks – Swargarohini, Kala Naag, Draupadi ka Danda… and so on. Weather had played a spoilt sport due to which we did not get the clear blue sky.
Time to get going ! We planned to descend from the other side (the one which is in sight from the KK base camp). What looked like gentle slope from far, looked every bit treacherous up close. One little slip, would send one sliding & tumbling down.
This is where it got fun.
Easier to slide than walk !!!

To cut it short, we took turns to slide down the snowy slopes, some of us landing more gracefully than others, who came head-down , feet up :D. All this happened so fast, we did not get a chance to get it on camera. Such a pity !
Had a leisurely tea & omelet break on our way down. Sun was up & shining bright and it was only now that we fully appreciated the logic of starting the summit climb early (other than being able to watch the beautiful sunrise). Snow was getting soft, making it difficult to walk.
All of us got back to the base camp well in time..
After lunch, we pushed off towards our next camp – Hargaon, which was a short 2 km walk.
This was the prettiest camp site, amongst all the ones in this trek. A small slightly elevated clearing, covered with a carpet of green grass, surrounded by dense pine trees, beyond which lie the mountains on all sides.
It started drizzling in the evening, which gave an opportunity for everyone to huddle inside the dining tent and play silly games . The Indiahikes team was sweet enough to bake a cake on the occasion. A surprise for us, we have lovely biryani for dinner. By now, it was pouring..
Ponchos reluctantly taken out, rushed about to wind up for the day. What a day it was !!
I kept waking up at night, to the sounds of rain splattering on the tent (even had a fair share of hail stones) , occasional thunder followed by lightning, lighting up the tent.  Woke up on a high !

Just when I thought that I’d experienced the best moment on the trek (The Summit), it got better…  J J Despite the weather, or rather, because of it, we got an entirely different experience.

Day 5:
And it keeps getting better!!
The descend to Sankri on a regular day would have been a 2 hours’ affair. But with the rain showing no signs of abating, we geared up for a longish journey down.
With ponchos & backpack covers on, the movement was inconvenient. The trail was very slippery. Everyone kept moving very carefully. Unfortunately, because the trail was treacherous, we could not look around to enjoy the sight of walking down the lush green forest. It being the last day, and nobody being in a real hurry to get back, our little group of 6-7 trailed behind. For almost half of the way down, we were walking with the little stream that was carrying the rain water down the slope, literally walking in the stream. Never before had I felt such appreciation for my shoes, for holding up on such a terrain. By the time we reached our lodge, drenched, despite the rain cover, water inside shoes, despite them being waterproof, we were exhausted. 
Anybody would have paid a bomb for the 2 things that we could only wish for at that point:
- hot water for bath
- a body massage

The day ended with a debriefing session, with everyone reliving popular jokes and sharing individual experiences of the trek. All of us felt immensely blessed to be able to complete the trek. 3 batches scheduled after ours had to cancel summit because of the rain and bad weather.

Day :6
Woke up at 6, with the highlights of trek & bits of conversations playing in the head.
It was still raining. Was already feeling sad about the entire event coming to an end...

Had one last round of hot tea n maggie, before getting on with the packing up n checking out.
Reached dehradun station by 7:30pm with ample time to kill. Bid goodbyes , with hopes  and promises to meet up later.
Small world ...!!

The 6 days will continue to be, undoubtedly, one of the most cherished experiences. My first high altitude trek!!
The weather, the trail, trek buddies and the group.... Everything was just about perfect!


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Comments

Nature Holidays said…
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Naveen said…
Good post describing the trek details. Well written, thanks.

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